I brought my camera with me to China to take some photos and show you a little bit of what goes on behind the scenes of shoe making.
These are shoe lasts... They are essentially shoe molds. These determine the shape of the shoe, the heel height, and the size.

There are a few different methods of pattern making when it comes to shoes. One involves taping the last as shown here. The pattern maker covers the last in masking tape and then makes a 3D version of the designer's sketch onto the tape.
The paper pattern is then laid onto the leathers or fabrics to be used for the shoe. The leather/fabric is cut and sewn and then "lasted".
This is an example of a lasted shoe. It is carefully pulled and stretched onto the last and heated to fit onto it perfectly.
Some tools of the trade...
Here is an upper sewn and ready to go on its last
And here it is after it has been lasted and had the outsole and heel attached
This...
Becomes this!
Pretty cool, huh? I'll have some more for you in my next post :)
I'm going back to China next month and though I already asked this, few of you answered so I'll ask again... Is there anything specific you guys want to know about the whole design process? Anything about working in China you want to hear about?
Let me know :)








55 comments:
I love this whole behind the scenes part of shoe making. I was always very interested in knowing about the differences between the half sizes. I understand the lasts are the same, but the uppers are different. Maybe I am wrong! However, I do think it would be cool to design your own shoe and really be involved. x
www.FashionSnag.com
I love when you post behind the scenes pictures like these! The shoe making process really is just that - a time consuming process!I likely won't complain about the price of shoes anymore!
Thanks for sharing this!
I'm glad you're back! Thanks for this post, it's always nice to see what's going on behind the scenes.
Now, is this the design process for all shoes? Or just better made shoes? Because I've wondered why there's such a discrepancy in fit. I'm sure each company has their own way to come up with the right last, but I wonder why some leave way too much room between the shoe and my toes and others are perfect. Like the difference between the Joey's you get at Ross (well, I don't get them because they fit awful) vs. Madden Girl (also awful) vs. Steven's (love usually). I don't have any high end ones. Not in the budget. Ever.
The fact that you get to sketch your ideas, and then see them in front of you being made, and then wear them yourself is beYOND amazingly dreamy to me.
Celine! This is so fascinating! How long does it take to make a pair of shoes like this? So every shoe is made like that? That's crazy-I don't know why I was thinking there would be an "easier" method-perhaps this is easy I don't know? I don't know anything about making shoes-I just love them. I think it is so interesting how many steps go into this!!
AWESOME post luv!
Smiles,
gina
http://hiyaluv.blogspot.com
Nice! How nice for you to share this....how lovely :)
Great behind the scenes post!!
Nice to know you also share this knowledge to everyone.
I miss seeing lasts and shoe patterns on my daily life!!
Love
Fabs xoxo
Thank you so much for the post! Shoes are my happy place and being able to read what happens behind the scenes is awesome! You are the best :)
this is the cool stuff that sets you apart from other blogs! well, this and your charming personality of course. ; )
I love shoes <3 I love your work & I love your post. you are lucky shoe girl.
What are some of your inspirations when it comes to designing? Do you have.. an 'inspiration board' of some sort or something? I love your designs!
Love seeing the deets behind the shoes. Thank you for sharing!
-Ash
www.pursuitofshoes.com
What are the heel and outsole made of and how are they shaped?
BTW..great post!!
This is so amazing. In design school we had a small course on how to make shoes and the one thing they told us is it's super hard to do as a home process [where as we can sew a dress at home in no time]. So it's really cool to see this all. I want to see more!!! I don't know of what just more of this it's neat to see it all! Keep up the great work!!! If you make em I'll wear em!
Carissa
http://copiouscouture.blogspot.com
This is absolutely fabulous, m'dear! Keep it up! I personally would like to hear how a shoe gets NAMED--what creative elements/what team ideas go into naming a brand's shoe style. Thanks for being awesome!
xoxo,
www.hollyinheels.com
Ooh, fun blog, really interesting
will be checking back :)
Impressive post!
Check out the new shoe designing blog that I just started recently.
The link is,
louboutininthemaking.blogspot.com
All designs are hand-drawn! Many Thanks!
this is really interesting thank you!
xo
http://www.leatherlaceblog.com/
http://www.leatherlaceblog.com/
how awesome! thank you for sharing the whole behind the scenes take!
the contemporary ingenue
xoxo E&L
Thanks so much for this post! I live and breathe shoes and I've always wondered if I should've gone into fashion. This behind the scenes look only gets me more interested in the shoe design/making process. I'd love to see more :)
Oh my god this is so cool... I have never seen how the beautiful shoes came from. Love the post.
this is so awesome!!
wow! thank you so much for this! I am a technical designer for apparel so I totally geek out on this stuff. I am always staring at my shoes just wondering how they come together lol!!
love your HL designs... I have a few pairs and they are some of my favorite shoes!
so awesome to see this! I can really get a feel of what im passionate about and this is soooo intriguing! Love it!
http://livinginshoes.blogspot.com
The designer sketch you show is exaggerated in the shape. How is the actual last shape determined? Are there lots of lasts or just one for each heel height? Are they modeled from someone's feet?
I'd like to see the equipment that sews this all together! Is it a 1 person process or will a big team do it in a factory line up type way.
I love this post, going to tweet it for fellow shoe lovers :D
AH. I need to stalk you to china and steal some of those lasts! They're quite rare stateside since, as you know, there is so little shoe manufacturing here. I actually just posted photos of my baby collection of lasts on my blog.
When it comes to heel shapes do they simply carve a proto and then make a mold of the final result? I'm always curious with high fashion shoes that don't have acrylic heels, do they have to carve each heel individually? And how do stacked leather heels work.. is there a steel rod down the center for support? I'm always baffled by super skinny stacked leather stilettos because I don't know how such a skinny heel could support weight without added structure.
Brilliant post, very informative, never knew how they go about making shoes. William has asked some good questions there.
Have a super day.
Colin.
Thank you for the comment and support! Check out my new post when you get the chance!
I would really appreciate it if you have any advice on people starting out with their shoe designing career??
Prad Savania x
Louboutininthemaking.blogspot.com
Really neat pics! Love this post. So interesting how much goes into one pair
http://collectionsandcreations.blogspot.com/
this post was really cool.i'm a huge shoe lover and never seen the process before!so thank you :O)
THis is an amazing post! I always wanted to see what happens behind the curtains.
I would really, really LOVE to be able to make shoes... Manolo Blanick is one of my heros!
Yay! What a great post. This is one of the things I said I'd love to see in your last "reader questions" post. It's really cool seeing the design transition from sketch, to mockup, to shoe!
Theoretically, could you make a last from a casting of someone's foot? Do you know if anyone has actually done that?
Interesting post!
Great post, I really enjoy seeing the process! Pertaining to your China trip, I would love to know how the workers feel towards the work and their work environment. Is it a happy place? Thanks!
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Great site!!! I'm very excited to know that you are on facebook. You have some great posts. I really enjoy the post on the anatomy of a shoe. I'll keep up with you on facebook for sure!
As someone who's interested in shoe design, this is the most perfect thing to see. Thank you for sharing these photos with us.
Here's a question: have you ever attempted to hand make your own shoes? Would you?
What's the point of doing sketches that are so exaggerated that the actual finished shoe looks nothing like the sketch?
wow! i have always been fascinated by how shoes are made!
thanks for these photos!
♥
Oh wow that is so cool!!!! :D :D
http://aclosetfashionista.blogspot.com/
I think it is so amazing that you are basically living out your dream as a shoe designer. I come to your blog and it gives me such inspiration, and because I am borderline obsessed with shoes. I hope one day my shoe collection is as amazing as yours :)
So I always wanted to know, how long exactly does the whole shoe making process take? When creating a design, where does your inspiration come from? Lastly, if you could design a shoe for one deserving person who would it be?
This post was truly interesting and I love those polka dots shoes. Hope to read more interesting shoes production related posts.
If you are interested in beauty and clothes as me follow me on
http://alessiapearl.blogspot.com/
Keep it up!
these styles on your post are totally my favorite,xoxo
Fascinating!
i love the outfits. they r so cute!!!
I just love this blog, I’m there every day..kisses for you
Thanks for sharing! This was very informative. Love your taste in shoes.
I am now well informed that shoes are made out of love and compassion. Now I know the reason why shoes are pricey!
That is the kewlest thing i have ever seen.. love it... and makes me aprriecate my shoes sooooo soo much more..
How fascinating! I am definitely going to follow your blog from now on!
This is so fascinating to me! I love shoes! Thanks for posting!
snapshotsofnow.blogspot.com
Woah!Great post!
Reminds me of Holly from P.S. I Love You :D
Follow my blog at
http://huesofpink.blogspot.com/
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